Looking for a romantic coastal escape in Italy but don't want to spend the coin it takes to stay on the Amalfi Coast (looking at you Positano)? Well, look no further than Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre, which literally means five lands, has all of the colorful ocean cliffside charm of the Amalfi Coast, without the price tag. Nestled along the central coast, bordering the Ligurian Sea, you'll find the five villages that makeup Cinque Terre. Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an Italian National Park, this natural and man-made beauty is a place you'll want to fit into your Italy Itinerary.
Where to Stay:
The main question most people ask when considering Cinque Terre as a spot on their itinerary is, "which village should I stay in"? I'm going to quell some of your vacation planning nerves and tell you....you can't really go wrong here. Most blog posts I've found on the topic give their personal favorites, and they all have one common theme...their favorite village was the one they STAYED in! The simplest reason for this....you get to see the village in peace without the shuffle and buzz of the daily tourists. When the daily visitors leave at the end of the day the quiet settles over the town, and it'll almost feel like the place is your little secret.
Riomaggiore: If you're traveling from La Spezia, this is the first village you'll cross. When googling Cinque Terre a snapshot of this town is probably the first image you'll see. The colorful buildings tucked in the tiny harbor make for a great photo op. Riomaggiore is where we stayed as it was listed as the town with the most nightlife. However, it's important to take the term nightlife lightly. I would describe each of these villages as rather sleepy - you won't find any clubs in Cinque Terre. Rest assured, assuming you're not coming to Cinque Terre to party, you won't be bored.
Manarola: Probably the most famous village of the five, Manarola, in my opinion, has the most gorgeous sunset view in Cinque Terre. The way the golden hour glow plays with the colors of the village is just, wow. Manarola is also home to the ever-popular and famous dining experience, Nessun Dorma. A restaurant that could easily win the best dining view in the world, however, is not just a place to enjoy aperitivo it is, in fact, an experience. Nessun Dorma provides daily pesto-making classes - where you'll feel like a local for the hour as you learn about the local ingredients and history. In addition to making pesto fit for the Gods, you can enjoy a wine experience as well. Take a walk in their terrace vineyard, enjoy the view, and sip some wine. Now, if you're looking for a more passive experience you CAN, of course, sit and enjoy a drink, have a snack, and take in the wonderful scenery.
Corniglia: As I said earlier, you really can't go wrong with which village you choose for your accommodation. However, Corniglia is the only village out of the bunch where I would pause. Beautiful and charming, this village has a lot to offer. However, unlike the others that sit upon the sea, Corniglia is situated atop a cliff, which makes getting to your accommodation a bit more challenging at the end of the day. You'll have to climb nearly 400 steps to get to the top, or you can take a shuttle that comes about every 30 minutes. One plus of this is Corniglia is that it is probably the quietest out of the villages in the evenings. As a result, it doesn't feel as touristy as the others and feels a bit more authentic and genuine.
Vernazza: Once you visit you'll understand why Vernazza is often classified as one of the most picturesque villages in ALL of Italy. This is the only village with a natural harbor, which means, it's a popular area for boat tours. To me, this village was the busiest during the day compared to the others, which isn't necessarily the worst thing if you're off to the other villages during the day and spending the evenings here.
Monterroso: The last of the villages from La Spezia, Monterroso, is the only one with a true beach. Some say this village lacks the charm the others have, and while I would say this is true in relative comparison, it is not lacking aesthetics or appeal, it's just different.
When to Visit:
In my opinion, the best time of year to visit Cinque Terre would be late September - early October. You'll have missed the chaotic crowds from the high season, but you'll be just ahead of the off-season, so everything should still be open. The weather should also be more favorable during this time as it can get quite hot and sticky during peak summer months, so it will be cooler, but still warm enough to jump in the water. Absolutely do not go in August. Many Europeans take their annual vacations during August, so crowds are likely to be even bigger than what you may normally come across. If you're looking in the Spring/Summer months I would stick to the end of April - end of May, maybe early June.
Accommodation:
If you're looking to stay in a luxury resort, I would probably look elsewhere in Italy. Given the size of Cinque Terre, and the limited amount of space, you won't find large hotels here. Instead, the most common type of accommodation you'll find is an affittacamere, which are room or apartment rentals within each village. They're easy to find on all of your main booking sites whether it be booking.com, Airbnb, or VRBO. We stayed in Riomaggiore and I loved our apartment - the 5terre Green Leaf Apartment - booked through Airbnb. The apartment was a perfect size, clean, and the host was very responsive. She even gave us a detailed recommendation list of where to eat and what to do! Side note: be aware of what floor your accommodation is on. Remember, given the historical nature of the area most buildings do not have elevators.
Transportation:
I do not recommend bringing a car to Cinque Terre. I repeat, DO NOT BRING A CAR to Cinque Terre. While two of the towns (Riomaggiore and Monterroso) technically allow cars, parking is virtually non-existent. Instead, there is a very convenient train that runs back and forth through all the villages. You can get a multi-day Cinque Terre Card for less than €50, which gives you unlimited rides on the train and access to the hiking trails. If you do have a car in Italy I would recommend leaving it at the La Spezia train station and training in vs. trying to find a spot to park in Riomaggiore or Monterroso. Overnight parking near the station is €30 a day.
Hiking:
Cinque Terre is a hiker lover's paradise. Once upon a time, you could hike between all five villages, unfortunately, since 2011 a portion of the trail has been closed due to a landslide. However, if you're planning ahead to 2024, you might get lucky, as the trail is scheduled to reopen in July of that year. (Visit Cinque Terre's official website for updates.) With that being said, the rest of the trails are still accessible and let me tell you it is worth it to get at least one hike in on your visit. Each trail varies in level of difficulty and averages 1.5-2 hours each. To determine the best route for you stop by the tourist office in one of the villages and take a look at the trail maps on Komoot. This app specifically came recommended to me by our Airbnb host and it definitely came in handy!
(photo credit: cinqueterre.eu)
Dining:
It doesn't matter where you are in Italy, you're going to find good food, and Cinque Terre is no exception. Being close to the sea, you'll have your fair share of seafood, but it is also a pasta lover's delight. You're more likely to have your evening meals in the village where your accommodations are so before booking your stay make sure to take a list of the restaurants within that village specifically. Nessun Dorma, as noted above, is a very popular destination in Manarola, but make sure to get there early and take advantage of their unique app that makes it easier to grab a seat. Dau Cila is a highly recommended seafood restaurant right along the harbor of Riomaggiore. For pizza and pasta, La Lampara is also in Riomaggiore.
Other:
Agriculture: Cinque Terre is often mistakenly referred to as a fishing village, but it's farming that actually has a more prominent history in the area. You'll notice ridges carved along the cliffside throughout the area, which are farms and are called terraces. The majority of these farms are vineyards - and Cinque Terre is known for its local wine. Make sure to try some!
Accessibility: I'm not going to sugarcoat it...Cinque Terre is not the most accessible for those who have physical disabilities or use a wheelchair. Stairs are the only access point to many places within the area and most accommodations do not have elevators. My uncle heavily relies on a cane and there were some areas he was unable to access, however, all in all, he still found plenty to enjoy, it just involved a bit more planning ahead.
Length of Stay: To fully experience the five villages I would stay at least two nights here. Ideally, three, but no more than four.
Price: As I said earlier, Cinque Terre is often considered a more budget-friendly alternative to the Amalfi Coast. We stayed for a total of 3 nights and spent €875 between everything (this also includes nightly parking as we were road-tripping).
If you're budget conscious or curious as to how much you should expect to spend, see my breakdown below:
Transportation:
Train: Cinque Terre Card - Price ranges from €2.50-€48 depending on the ticket type. A day pass is €18.50 per Adult (which includes hiking trail access). The pass gives you unlimited train rides between the five towns + Levanto & La Spezia.
Parking: €30 per night at most overnight locations in the area
Accommodation: €150-€300 a night for accommodation in the heart of Cinque Terre. Most places I came across were less than €200 per night. This compares to Positano on the Amalfi coast nearing an average of €400 per night.
Dining: €15-€50 per person per meal
This varies greatly depending on where you go and what you consume. However, my fiancé and I were quite surprised at how affordable everything was given the atmosphere and quality of the food.
Now that you've completed your homework it's time to book your trip! Contact me to help build your ideal itinerary.
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